Mexico mainland

We made it to the mainland of Mexico! It has been interesting to see the change of landscape between the two. The Baja was really dry and full of cactuses. Though we really enjoyed that, it’s been nice to be in a green world again. And, to see rivers with water in them! And trees…

This availability of water also means that there is lots of agriculture around, often we can see irrigation channels that are made of concrete. They make their way in abstract lines through the landscape, reminding me a bit of home. The mango trees are blossoming, tobacco plants are plentiful, and the agave plant, that is used to produce tequila, was cultured all around the city of Tequila and beyond. Sugarcane is harvested in big trucks that pass us on the road and make us wonder why they have to be filled to the top and then even a bit more. Needless to say, lots of sugarcane does not make it to its official destination, but ends up on the roads. As we’re moving along towards Mexico city, agriculture becomes more intensive with missive dairy, poultry and swine farms, and greener fields with sometimes greenhouses to improve efficacy.

Not only the landscape changes, also the temperature. The ferry dropped us off at sea level, and it was very hot there compared to the Baja, where it was already hot. Potentially because the higher humidity on the mainland? It made us decide to leave the coast for what it is and climb up onto the plateau where temperatures are a bit lower. Currently we’re around 1800 meters, and it’s quite pleasant, temperatures are a bit under and around 30 degrees Celsius during the day and drop down to 9 at night.

The first days when we started biking after getting to the mainland, temperatures were around 36 degrees Celsius. We learned pretty quick that waking up at 5 am would have us biking at 6 am in nice cool temperatures. To me, the time between 6 and 8 is the best of the day anyways, especially when we’re biking a countryside road. We then see the first beams of sun peeking through the leaves of the trees that are surrounding the road. The fields are covered by a morning haze. Dogs are still waking up and are not interested in chasing us yet. We see kids on their way to school in their clean school uniforms wearing cute little backpacks. Sometimes they are walking, sometimes they are brought by mom on the scooter. We see the workers making their way to the fields. Some on bicycles, some walking, and some in groups crammed in trucks. Horses with cowboys on them are also frequenting the roads, on a mission only they know, perhaps to check on their cows in the fields? This moment of the day everybody seems a bit sleep drunk and just slowly going about. In those moments, while we are getting ready for hours of climbing in the burning sun, they are getting ready for hours of working in the fields under the same burning sun. We always greet each other, and it feels like we’re on the same page.

Our trip takes us through villages and cities with exotic names, like Escuinapa, Acaponeta, Jocotepic, Ajijic and Tequisquiapan, making it difficult to write in our diaries where we are and after waking up in the morning, the only way to remember the town where we are located is to use the gps at google maps. We use hotels a lot, they are pretty cheap and give us a well-deserved shower. Though now we’re getting closer to Mexico City the prizes have increase quite a bit.

Sometimes during our afternoons in the heat when we take a break under a tree and it happens to be the only easily accessible tree in the surrounding, some workers come join us. It’s too bad that our Spanish is not better than it is, but we try to babble away and learn some things from each other. I tell them that I’m from the Netherlands, and this often leads to a discussion about our soccer teams (though I must admit I haven’t followed them much lately). They tell me about the tequila farming, and show me the fruit that they are taking from the tree we’re standing under to nibble on, using their massive machetes. I’ve not seen the fruit before and am eager to try. Though such days are physically demanding with the early rise and sometimes long climbs, they are also relaxing. There is something simple and beautiful about countryside life, and I always enjoy being somewhat part of it, wherever in the world it is.